Trees, Eggs, and Cheese

I like asparagus. I do, however, prefer it cold with a mayonnaise sauce. But this recipe could make an appearance on the table and I wouldn't object. The other residents of the launchpad might though, as asparagus is not high on their vegetable like list. The recipes come from the New York Times Magazine, reprinting a 1977 version that closely resembles an asparagus quiche and the modern equivalent is more the pairing of eggs and asparagus. Try them both and see what you think.

RECIPE: 1977, Asparagus Alla Fontina
This recipe appeared in an article in The Times by Mimi Sheraton.

• Salt
• 2 1/2 pounds thin asparagus, trimmed and washed
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/3 cup grated Gruyère (see note)
• 3/4 cup finely minced or slivered prosciutto
• 2 tablespoons minced parsley
• 3 eggs, beaten
• 3 to 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan.
  

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and cook until crisp-tender. Drain and cut into 1-to-1½-inch lengths. Return the asparagus to the pot. Add the butter and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set over low heat and stir to melt the butter. Remove from the heat.
2. Turn the asparagus and the melted butter into a 9- or 10-inch pie plate. Arrange in an even layer. Sprinkle with the Gruyère, prosciutto and parsley. Pour the beaten eggs on top, gently shaking the pan to distribute.
3. Top with the Parmesan and bake until the eggs are set into a custard and a golden-brown crust forms on top, about 35 minutes. Serve hot or warm. Serves 4 to 6.
   

Note: You may use fontina in place of the Gruyère.

Recipe: 2010, Asparagus, Prosciutto and Egg
By Carlo Mirarchi, the chef and co-owner of Roberta’s in Brooklyn

• 20 stalks medium-thickness asparagus, washed
• 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving
• Sea salt
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• Juice of ½ lemon
• 5 large eggs (chicken or duck)
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 4 large, thin slices La Quercia prosciutto (see note)
• 4 to 6 tablespoons freshly grated pecorino Romano
• Freshly ground black pepper.
  

1. Prepare the asparagus: trim the ends off the asparagus where they break naturally. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in large sauté pan over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the asparagus and season with sea salt. Turn frequently and cook until the spears are crisp-tender, about 8 minutes. When the asparagus is almost ready, add 1 tablespoon butter to the pan and use it to baste the asparagus. Squeeze lemon juice over the asparagus, and lay the stalks on a paper towel to drain.
2. To cook the eggs, heat 1 tablespoon butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Once it is melted, crack the eggs into the saucepan and add the cream. As the whites of the eggs become visible, slowly whisk the eggs with a fork until they have a soft and creamy texture. It is important that they remain very creamy and soft. They will continue cooking off the heat, so stop before they are fully cooked. Once the eggs are the desired texture, add sea salt to taste.
3. To assemble the dish, divide the asparagus among 4 warm plates. Drape a slice of prosciutto over each bundle of asparagus. Spoon the soft scrambled eggs over the prosciutto, followed by the grated pecorino and black pepper. Sprinkle with olive oil and serve immediately. Serves 4 as a first course.
   

Note: La Quercia prosciutto is available at Whole Foods and at laquercia.us.