Mardi Gras Recipe: Gateau de Crepes

It was always nice to have two occasions when I could have crepes growing up. They usually came around the same time. After Candlemas Day, the next occasion was Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday, marking the start of Lent.

Here is another way to prepare crepes (from the New York Times). This is a truly decadent dessert.

Gateau de Crepes

For the crepe batter

• 6 tbsp. butter
• 3 cups milk
• 6 eggs
• 1 1/2 cups flour
• 7 tbsp. sugar
• pinch of salt

For the vanilla pastry cream

• 2 cups milk
• 1 vanilla bean, halved and scraped
• 6 egg yolks
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup cornstarch, sifted
• 3 1/2 tbsp. butter

For the assembly

• corn oil
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 tbsp. sugar or more
• 3 tbsp. Kirsch
• Confectioners sugar

The day before, make the crepe batter and the pastry cream. Batter: in a small pan cook the butter until brown like hazelnuts. Set aside. In another small pan, heat the milk until steaming; allow to cool for 10 minutes. In a mixer on medium-low speed, beat together the eggs, flour, sugar, and salt. Slowly add the hot milk and browned butter. Pour into a container with a spout, cover and refrigerate overnight.

Pastry cream: Bring the milk with the vanilla bean (and scrapings) to a boil, then set aside for 10 minutes, remove bean. Fill a large bowl with ice and set aside a small bowl that can hold the finished pastry cream and be placed in this ice bath.

In a medium heavy-bottomed pan, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch. Gradually whisk in the hot milk, then place pan over high heat and bring to a boil, whisking vigorously for 1 to 2 minutes. Press the pastry cream through a sieve into the small bowl. Set the bowl in the ice bath and stir until the temperature reaches 140 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Stir in the butter. When completely cool, cover and refrigerate.

Assemble the cake the next day. Bring the batter to room temperature. Place a nonstick or seasoned 9-inch crepe pan over medium heat. Swab the surface with oil, then add about 3 tbsp batter and swirl to cover the surface. Cook until the bottom just begins to brown, about 1 minute, then carefully lift an edge and flip with your fingers. Cook on the other side for no longer than five seconds. Flip the crepe onto a baking sheet lined with parchment. Repeat until you have 20 perfect crepes.

Pass the pastry cream through a sieve once more. Whip the heavy cream with the tablespoon sugar and the Kirsch. It won't hold peaks. Fold into the pastry cream.

Lay 1 crepe on a cake plate. Using an icing spatula, completely cover with a thin layer of pastry cream (about 1/4 cup). Cover with a crepe and repeat to make a stack of 20, with the best looking crepe on top. Chill for at least 2 hours. Set out for 30 minutes before serving. If you have a blowtorch for creme brulee, sprinkle the top crepe with 2 tbsp. sugar and caramelize with the torch; otherwise, dust with confectioners' sugar. Slice like a cake.